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Measure the body. If the thickness at the horn is 1.75 inches then it is a full size body. Most bullets and Affinities are below that. The cheapest full size body you will find is the SE. The SE is part of a strat-pac which comes with the little cheap 10 watt Squier Amp.
Measuring a full 1.000″ thick at both the 1st fret and the 13th with an even taper, this shape with the extra mass provides a big bold and punch tone to the guitar. 60’s C Vintage Standard – This is another very popular shape that feels classic that starts out thin but tapers fatter as you go up the neck. It starts out at.810″ at the first fret to a chunky.930″ at the 13th fret. Need exact Strat measurements. Can somebody tell me or point me to, in a MIA Fender Strat: 1) the screwholes for the neck, where exactly are they positioned relative to the forward edge of a 21 fret neck (or alternatively, relative to the 21st fret)? 2) the tremolo route for a 6-point vintage tremolo, where exactly does it start relative.
Wonderful full size for modding. Anything that says 'standard' on the headstock is full size. The SE doesn't say SE on the headstock, you just have to measure it. The Deluxe is full size but it doesn't have Deluxe written on it either. Measure is the only way to know for sure. People can make up a waterslide so just depend on your rule or a caliper. Real reason you need the full thickness is so the guitar will accept a full size tremolo block.
If the body isn't full size the bottom of the block will stand out the back of the body. I have a bullet hardtail and it is only 1.50 thick. That is 1/4 thinner than my Deluxe. Also 3 1/2 pounds lighter. I love both of them but my bullet is a lot easier on my shoulder. Of course, the Deluxe is a lot more expensive and side by side it is easy to see why. Everything today is top quality as far as I can tell.
Just measure it! Hope my rambling helped. I was thrown for a loop a little bit by a post in another thread, which suggested that 'some' SE's are not full size.
Has anyone ever encountered an SE that was NOT 1.75' thick?I recently got an SE to do a bunch of mods on, because I had done a mod on a 1996 MIC Squier Bullet, but chose not to do a GFS steel trem block because I had heard that Bullets and Affinitys are smaller.Interestingly enough, I just grabbed a ruler and measured the SE, and it does look to be exactly 1.75' at the thickest parts (curve where it rests on your leg, etc.). Interestingly enough, the '96 Bullet is also the same 1.75'. Again, this is not with a caliper, so it's not exact. But they look to be the same. They are shaped differently in other areas (such as where it tapers inward near the armpit), and the SE does feel 'heavier', but that could be due to the type of wood (agathis?) or the thicker neck.I've certainly picked up Affinity Squiers at Guitar Center that were dramatically thinner than either of my two Squiers, so I know there are thinner Squiers. But is it possible to have a full-size Bullet? And is there a such thing as a non-full-size SE?Thanks, I have a GFS trem with full steel block coming in a week or so, so I'll be trying it out and just making the best out of however it turns out.
Click to expand.That's pretty much what I thought, word for word. I would not have been surprised if the Bullet was less than full-size, but it may be. SE's, which is the one that comes in the box set with the crappy amp, were always full-size, or so I thought.
Of course, that doesn't necessarily mean all Strat components will fit on there. I'll just have to wait and see, and probably do some routing/sanding.For example, I gutted the thing today and was not-so-pleased to find that it has something like a H-S-S cutout instead of the 'swimming pool' I had on my Bullet:I'm installing H-H pickups, so I'm almost certainly going to have to lose some of that wood that just out. Not the end of the world - it should be pretty easy to get in there with a Dremel and sand away.Will the GFS trem block fit?
Who knows until I try, but having removed the old one, it's pretty large on its own (though made out of crappy pot metal), and there were a few centimeters left in there to spare below the trem cover. Sorry to dig up an old thread but 1996-1998 Affinities and earlier Bullets have full-thickness (1.75'), alder bodies (2- or 3-piece), especially those 'Made' (not crafted) in China. They were essentially the same guitars except the Affinities had cheaper tuners. Both were mid-'50s style 8-hole pick guards and had vintage bridges but 'block' saddles. These were oddballs by all standards as later models had thinner bodies, were often plywood and made or crafted in Indonesia.
I won't address the other Squiers, but I do know that the '96-'98 Affinity bodies were painted solid colors (black, white, red) over two-color bursts in the early Strat tradition. The poly clear and the underlying sealer were/are very difficult to remove, but one once off, the bodies are very solid bases to be painted for partscasters.
The 22-fret necks on these guitars were amazingly fast and smooth with vintage tint maple behind a rosewood(?) fretboard. The pups were hot and had vintage tone. Great for the money, for sure. That's pretty much what I thought, word for word. I would not have been surprised if the Bullet was less than full-size, but it may be. SE's, which is the one that comes in the box set with the crappy amp, were always full-size, or so I thought.
Of course, that doesn't necessarily mean all Strat components will fit on there. I'll just have to wait and see, and probably do some routing/sanding.For example, I gutted the thing today and was not-so-pleased to find that it has something like a H-S-S cutout instead of the 'swimming pool' I had on my Bullet:I'm installing H-H pickups, so I'm almost certainly going to have to lose some of that wood that just out. Not the end of the world - it should be pretty easy to get in there with a Dremel and sand away.Will the GFS trem block fit? Who knows until I try, but having removed the old one, it's pretty large on its own (though made out of crappy pot metal), and there were a few centimeters left in there to spare below the trem cover.
Guitar Bodies
The center of balance for the guitar is the guitar body. Proper proportions are vital for headstock and neck weight. The various finishes, wood types, and guitar styles available to guitarists offer a wide range of sounds and music creation experiences.
Guitar body binding is an applied trim to the instrument. The binding serves as a finishing touch to seal the edges of the top, back, and side of the body. Some binding includes a decorative finish and is called a purfling. These decorative trims create a signature touch to the guitar body design.
What different types of guitar bodies are there?- Dreadnought: These guitar bodies are highly versatile. They have a balance of volume, size, and playing ease. The neck is attached at the fourteenth fret.
- Parlor: As one of the smaller guitar bodies available, parlor guitars are favored among indie and folk enthusiasts. The neck is attached at the twelveth fret on this guitar.
- Jumbo: Much as the name sounds, jumbo guitars reverberate big, bold melodies.
Choosing a guitar body can be overwhelming with so many guitar body styles available. Here are some beginning factors to consider:
- Select a size: Dreadnought, Auditorium, Parlor, Jumbo
- Select a style: Acoustic, Electric, Classical
- Select a finish: High gloss, Satin, Dull or Flat Finish
- Select a type of wood: Maple Wood, Mahogany Wood, Rosewood, Alder, and Ebony are a few choices available.
If you are revitalizing older, already painted bodies, or customizing new unfinished bodies, here are some helpful pointers about custom painting work:
- Remove old paint and finish - If your guitar already has paint on it, you will need to remove it and sand it down before applying your custom paint.
- Seal and prep surface - You will need to apply a coat of sealer and a base color before you do any custom work or designs.
- Choose paint type - Common types of paint are polyester, polyurethane, and nitrocellulose. Polyester and polyurethane paints give a durable, almost plastic finish after painting. Nitrocellulose paints are thinner and lighter. Allowing the painting to dry and reapplying three to seven coats of paint is ideal.
- Apply a clear finishing coat - To seal the newly applied paint, you must apply a clear lacquer gloss coat. This will protect the paint and provide a shiny gloss finish.
Popular Posts
Measure the body. If the thickness at the horn is 1.75 inches then it is a full size body. Most bullets and Affinities are below that. The cheapest full size body you will find is the SE. The SE is part of a strat-pac which comes with the little cheap 10 watt Squier Amp.
Measuring a full 1.000″ thick at both the 1st fret and the 13th with an even taper, this shape with the extra mass provides a big bold and punch tone to the guitar. 60’s C Vintage Standard – This is another very popular shape that feels classic that starts out thin but tapers fatter as you go up the neck. It starts out at.810″ at the first fret to a chunky.930″ at the 13th fret. Need exact Strat measurements. Can somebody tell me or point me to, in a MIA Fender Strat: 1) the screwholes for the neck, where exactly are they positioned relative to the forward edge of a 21 fret neck (or alternatively, relative to the 21st fret)? 2) the tremolo route for a 6-point vintage tremolo, where exactly does it start relative.
Wonderful full size for modding. Anything that says \'standard\' on the headstock is full size. The SE doesn\'t say SE on the headstock, you just have to measure it. The Deluxe is full size but it doesn\'t have Deluxe written on it either. Measure is the only way to know for sure. People can make up a waterslide so just depend on your rule or a caliper. Real reason you need the full thickness is so the guitar will accept a full size tremolo block.
If the body isn\'t full size the bottom of the block will stand out the back of the body. I have a bullet hardtail and it is only 1.50 thick. That is 1/4 thinner than my Deluxe. Also 3 1/2 pounds lighter. I love both of them but my bullet is a lot easier on my shoulder. Of course, the Deluxe is a lot more expensive and side by side it is easy to see why. Everything today is top quality as far as I can tell.
Just measure it! Hope my rambling helped. I was thrown for a loop a little bit by a post in another thread, which suggested that \'some\' SE\'s are not full size.
Has anyone ever encountered an SE that was NOT 1.75\' thick?I recently got an SE to do a bunch of mods on, because I had done a mod on a 1996 MIC Squier Bullet, but chose not to do a GFS steel trem block because I had heard that Bullets and Affinitys are smaller.Interestingly enough, I just grabbed a ruler and measured the SE, and it does look to be exactly 1.75\' at the thickest parts (curve where it rests on your leg, etc.). Interestingly enough, the \'96 Bullet is also the same 1.75\'. Again, this is not with a caliper, so it\'s not exact. But they look to be the same. They are shaped differently in other areas (such as where it tapers inward near the armpit), and the SE does feel \'heavier\', but that could be due to the type of wood (agathis?) or the thicker neck.I\'ve certainly picked up Affinity Squiers at Guitar Center that were dramatically thinner than either of my two Squiers, so I know there are thinner Squiers. But is it possible to have a full-size Bullet? And is there a such thing as a non-full-size SE?Thanks, I have a GFS trem with full steel block coming in a week or so, so I\'ll be trying it out and just making the best out of however it turns out.
Click to expand.That\'s pretty much what I thought, word for word. I would not have been surprised if the Bullet was less than full-size, but it may be. SE\'s, which is the one that comes in the box set with the crappy amp, were always full-size, or so I thought.
Of course, that doesn\'t necessarily mean all Strat components will fit on there. I\'ll just have to wait and see, and probably do some routing/sanding.For example, I gutted the thing today and was not-so-pleased to find that it has something like a H-S-S cutout instead of the \'swimming pool\' I had on my Bullet:I\'m installing H-H pickups, so I\'m almost certainly going to have to lose some of that wood that just out. Not the end of the world - it should be pretty easy to get in there with a Dremel and sand away.Will the GFS trem block fit?
Who knows until I try, but having removed the old one, it\'s pretty large on its own (though made out of crappy pot metal), and there were a few centimeters left in there to spare below the trem cover. Sorry to dig up an old thread but 1996-1998 Affinities and earlier Bullets have full-thickness (1.75\'), alder bodies (2- or 3-piece), especially those \'Made\' (not crafted) in China. They were essentially the same guitars except the Affinities had cheaper tuners. Both were mid-\'50s style 8-hole pick guards and had vintage bridges but \'block\' saddles. These were oddballs by all standards as later models had thinner bodies, were often plywood and made or crafted in Indonesia.
I won\'t address the other Squiers, but I do know that the \'96-\'98 Affinity bodies were painted solid colors (black, white, red) over two-color bursts in the early Strat tradition. The poly clear and the underlying sealer were/are very difficult to remove, but one once off, the bodies are very solid bases to be painted for partscasters.
The 22-fret necks on these guitars were amazingly fast and smooth with vintage tint maple behind a rosewood(?) fretboard. The pups were hot and had vintage tone. Great for the money, for sure. That\'s pretty much what I thought, word for word. I would not have been surprised if the Bullet was less than full-size, but it may be. SE\'s, which is the one that comes in the box set with the crappy amp, were always full-size, or so I thought.
Of course, that doesn\'t necessarily mean all Strat components will fit on there. I\'ll just have to wait and see, and probably do some routing/sanding.For example, I gutted the thing today and was not-so-pleased to find that it has something like a H-S-S cutout instead of the \'swimming pool\' I had on my Bullet:I\'m installing H-H pickups, so I\'m almost certainly going to have to lose some of that wood that just out. Not the end of the world - it should be pretty easy to get in there with a Dremel and sand away.Will the GFS trem block fit? Who knows until I try, but having removed the old one, it\'s pretty large on its own (though made out of crappy pot metal), and there were a few centimeters left in there to spare below the trem cover.
Guitar Bodies
The center of balance for the guitar is the guitar body. Proper proportions are vital for headstock and neck weight. The various finishes, wood types, and guitar styles available to guitarists offer a wide range of sounds and music creation experiences.
What is guitar body binding?
Guitar body binding is an applied trim to the instrument. The binding serves as a finishing touch to seal the edges of the top, back, and side of the body. Some binding includes a decorative finish and is called a purfling. These decorative trims create a signature touch to the guitar body design.
What different types of guitar bodies are there?- Dreadnought: These guitar bodies are highly versatile. They have a balance of volume, size, and playing ease. The neck is attached at the fourteenth fret.
- Parlor: As one of the smaller guitar bodies available, parlor guitars are favored among indie and folk enthusiasts. The neck is attached at the twelveth fret on this guitar.
- Jumbo: Much as the name sounds, jumbo guitars reverberate big, bold melodies.
Choosing a guitar body can be overwhelming with so many guitar body styles available. Here are some beginning factors to consider:
- Select a size: Dreadnought, Auditorium, Parlor, Jumbo
- Select a style: Acoustic, Electric, Classical
- Select a finish: High gloss, Satin, Dull or Flat Finish
- Select a type of wood: Maple Wood, Mahogany Wood, Rosewood, Alder, and Ebony are a few choices available.
If you are revitalizing older, already painted bodies, or customizing new unfinished bodies, here are some helpful pointers about custom painting work:
- Remove old paint and finish - If your guitar already has paint on it, you will need to remove it and sand it down before applying your custom paint.
- Seal and prep surface - You will need to apply a coat of sealer and a base color before you do any custom work or designs.
- Choose paint type - Common types of paint are polyester, polyurethane, and nitrocellulose. Polyester and polyurethane paints give a durable, almost plastic finish after painting. Nitrocellulose paints are thinner and lighter. Allowing the painting to dry and reapplying three to seven coats of paint is ideal.
- Apply a clear finishing coat - To seal the newly applied paint, you must apply a clear lacquer gloss coat. This will protect the paint and provide a shiny gloss finish.
Measure the body. If the thickness at the horn is 1.75 inches then it is a full size body. Most bullets and Affinities are below that. The cheapest full size body you will find is the SE. The SE is part of a strat-pac which comes with the little cheap 10 watt Squier Amp.
Measuring a full 1.000″ thick at both the 1st fret and the 13th with an even taper, this shape with the extra mass provides a big bold and punch tone to the guitar. 60’s C Vintage Standard – This is another very popular shape that feels classic that starts out thin but tapers fatter as you go up the neck. It starts out at.810″ at the first fret to a chunky.930″ at the 13th fret. Need exact Strat measurements. Can somebody tell me or point me to, in a MIA Fender Strat: 1) the screwholes for the neck, where exactly are they positioned relative to the forward edge of a 21 fret neck (or alternatively, relative to the 21st fret)? 2) the tremolo route for a 6-point vintage tremolo, where exactly does it start relative.
Wonderful full size for modding. Anything that says \'standard\' on the headstock is full size. The SE doesn\'t say SE on the headstock, you just have to measure it. The Deluxe is full size but it doesn\'t have Deluxe written on it either. Measure is the only way to know for sure. People can make up a waterslide so just depend on your rule or a caliper. Real reason you need the full thickness is so the guitar will accept a full size tremolo block.
If the body isn\'t full size the bottom of the block will stand out the back of the body. I have a bullet hardtail and it is only 1.50 thick. That is 1/4 thinner than my Deluxe. Also 3 1/2 pounds lighter. I love both of them but my bullet is a lot easier on my shoulder. Of course, the Deluxe is a lot more expensive and side by side it is easy to see why. Everything today is top quality as far as I can tell.
Just measure it! Hope my rambling helped. I was thrown for a loop a little bit by a post in another thread, which suggested that \'some\' SE\'s are not full size.
Has anyone ever encountered an SE that was NOT 1.75\' thick?I recently got an SE to do a bunch of mods on, because I had done a mod on a 1996 MIC Squier Bullet, but chose not to do a GFS steel trem block because I had heard that Bullets and Affinitys are smaller.Interestingly enough, I just grabbed a ruler and measured the SE, and it does look to be exactly 1.75\' at the thickest parts (curve where it rests on your leg, etc.). Interestingly enough, the \'96 Bullet is also the same 1.75\'. Again, this is not with a caliper, so it\'s not exact. But they look to be the same. They are shaped differently in other areas (such as where it tapers inward near the armpit), and the SE does feel \'heavier\', but that could be due to the type of wood (agathis?) or the thicker neck.I\'ve certainly picked up Affinity Squiers at Guitar Center that were dramatically thinner than either of my two Squiers, so I know there are thinner Squiers. But is it possible to have a full-size Bullet? And is there a such thing as a non-full-size SE?Thanks, I have a GFS trem with full steel block coming in a week or so, so I\'ll be trying it out and just making the best out of however it turns out.
Click to expand.That\'s pretty much what I thought, word for word. I would not have been surprised if the Bullet was less than full-size, but it may be. SE\'s, which is the one that comes in the box set with the crappy amp, were always full-size, or so I thought.
Of course, that doesn\'t necessarily mean all Strat components will fit on there. I\'ll just have to wait and see, and probably do some routing/sanding.For example, I gutted the thing today and was not-so-pleased to find that it has something like a H-S-S cutout instead of the \'swimming pool\' I had on my Bullet:I\'m installing H-H pickups, so I\'m almost certainly going to have to lose some of that wood that just out. Not the end of the world - it should be pretty easy to get in there with a Dremel and sand away.Will the GFS trem block fit?
Who knows until I try, but having removed the old one, it\'s pretty large on its own (though made out of crappy pot metal), and there were a few centimeters left in there to spare below the trem cover. Sorry to dig up an old thread but 1996-1998 Affinities and earlier Bullets have full-thickness (1.75\'), alder bodies (2- or 3-piece), especially those \'Made\' (not crafted) in China. They were essentially the same guitars except the Affinities had cheaper tuners. Both were mid-\'50s style 8-hole pick guards and had vintage bridges but \'block\' saddles. These were oddballs by all standards as later models had thinner bodies, were often plywood and made or crafted in Indonesia.
I won\'t address the other Squiers, but I do know that the \'96-\'98 Affinity bodies were painted solid colors (black, white, red) over two-color bursts in the early Strat tradition. The poly clear and the underlying sealer were/are very difficult to remove, but one once off, the bodies are very solid bases to be painted for partscasters.
The 22-fret necks on these guitars were amazingly fast and smooth with vintage tint maple behind a rosewood(?) fretboard. The pups were hot and had vintage tone. Great for the money, for sure. That\'s pretty much what I thought, word for word. I would not have been surprised if the Bullet was less than full-size, but it may be. SE\'s, which is the one that comes in the box set with the crappy amp, were always full-size, or so I thought.
Of course, that doesn\'t necessarily mean all Strat components will fit on there. I\'ll just have to wait and see, and probably do some routing/sanding.For example, I gutted the thing today and was not-so-pleased to find that it has something like a H-S-S cutout instead of the \'swimming pool\' I had on my Bullet:I\'m installing H-H pickups, so I\'m almost certainly going to have to lose some of that wood that just out. Not the end of the world - it should be pretty easy to get in there with a Dremel and sand away.Will the GFS trem block fit? Who knows until I try, but having removed the old one, it\'s pretty large on its own (though made out of crappy pot metal), and there were a few centimeters left in there to spare below the trem cover.
Guitar Bodies
The center of balance for the guitar is the guitar body. Proper proportions are vital for headstock and neck weight. The various finishes, wood types, and guitar styles available to guitarists offer a wide range of sounds and music creation experiences.
What is guitar body binding?Guitar body binding is an applied trim to the instrument. The binding serves as a finishing touch to seal the edges of the top, back, and side of the body. Some binding includes a decorative finish and is called a purfling. These decorative trims create a signature touch to the guitar body design.
What different types of guitar bodies are there?- Dreadnought: These guitar bodies are highly versatile. They have a balance of volume, size, and playing ease. The neck is attached at the fourteenth fret.
- Parlor: As one of the smaller guitar bodies available, parlor guitars are favored among indie and folk enthusiasts. The neck is attached at the twelveth fret on this guitar.
- Jumbo: Much as the name sounds, jumbo guitars reverberate big, bold melodies.
Choosing a guitar body can be overwhelming with so many guitar body styles available. Here are some beginning factors to consider:
- Select a size: Dreadnought, Auditorium, Parlor, Jumbo
- Select a style: Acoustic, Electric, Classical
- Select a finish: High gloss, Satin, Dull or Flat Finish
- Select a type of wood: Maple Wood, Mahogany Wood, Rosewood, Alder, and Ebony are a few choices available.
If you are revitalizing older, already painted bodies, or customizing new unfinished bodies, here are some helpful pointers about custom painting work:
- Remove old paint and finish - If your guitar already has paint on it, you will need to remove it and sand it down before applying your custom paint.
- Seal and prep surface - You will need to apply a coat of sealer and a base color before you do any custom work or designs.
- Choose paint type - Common types of paint are polyester, polyurethane, and nitrocellulose. Polyester and polyurethane paints give a durable, almost plastic finish after painting. Nitrocellulose paints are thinner and lighter. Allowing the painting to dry and reapplying three to seven coats of paint is ideal.
- Apply a clear finishing coat - To seal the newly applied paint, you must apply a clear lacquer gloss coat. This will protect the paint and provide a shiny gloss finish.