The right backspacing can mean the difference between your new wheels and tires fitting. There isn't an easy or accurate way to measure the offset of a wheel. Is There A Cure If the Backspacing On A Wheel Is Wrong? So without further ranting from me, here’s my list of 6 scenarios where using a hyphen is just plain wrong. Precursory note: WordPress auto-converted some of the hyphens in my examples to “en dashes,” a punctuation mark slightly wider than a hyphen, which.may. make them look correct.
Having added a few new cars to our project car fleet lately (more on those soon), and with wide fenders going on the S2000, we’ve been doing a lot of wheel fitment research lately. The problem with researching this subject online is the definition of “does it fit?” varies a lot from person to person. The Stance dudes think anything fits with enough camber and enough fender pulling, while grassroots racers like us tend to have a stricter definition since we’re focused more on functional wheel alignment and full suspension travel and steering angle without fender or wheel well or control arm contact.That said, as we proved with the ASS2000, we’re not afraid to aggressively roll and pull fenders to fit wider wheels and tires in the name of more grip and faster lap times. But since we’re putting some Downforce USA +30mm front fenders and ASM +25mm rear over-fenders on the car, we really need to nail the offset of the 17×10” wheels we’re planning to order this winter if we want to avoid putting a hurting on these. The idea is, after all, to make the S2000 as pretty as it is fast while also allowing us to fit an even wider set of wheels and tires.Point being, selecting the right wheel size and fit for your car is absolutely critical if you’re trying to maximize performance and minimize clearance issues with the fender lips and within the wheel wells.
Mi Flash Tool - Download the latest and Official Xiaomi Flash Tool 2019 for Xiaomi Redmi / Mi Smartphones and Tablets from the Official Xiaomi Mi Flash Tool Website. Mi flash tool 2019.
But before we get to some practical guidelines for selecting the best wheel fitment for your car, lets quickly review what wheel offset, back spacing, bolt circle diameter (or PCD) and center bore are so that you can better make sense of the ways wheel manufacturers list their products. Source: offset if the first place most people start when selecting new rolling stock for their street car or track car, and for good reason. As the diagram above illustrates, offset is a measurement of how far inboard (negative offset) or outboard (positive offset) the back of the wheel’s mating surface (axle pad) is from the wheel’s cross-sectional centerline. To achieve that deep dish or concave face everyone wants on their wheels these days, you either need a wheel with less positive/more negative offset or you need a wheel that has a spoke design with some outward curvature that creates the illusion of concavity.Measuring offset yourself it quite easy, but also keep in mind that most wheels have the offset cast or stamped into the backside of the wheel somewhere, often on the back of the spokes or axle pad. As you can see above on an wheel the size is cast in the back of the axle pad with a 17x8J (meaning the wheel is 17” in diameter and 8” wide) and the +35mm offset is cast in where it reads ‘Inset 35’.
Source: lets say you’re looking at buying a used set of wheels and the sticker or casting mark with offset information is missing. To determine offset you start by measuring backspacing by taking a measurement from the inboard flange or inside lip of the wheel to the back of the axle pad on the flat surface where the wheel would sit flush against the hub when bolted down. This distance gives you your backspacing. Make sure to measure from the flange, not the bead lip which often pokes out further than the flange. Source: you need to take a measurement of total wheel width by simply measuring the distance from the inside of the inboard and outboard lips or wheel beads. This is critical to get right, since if you measure from the outside of the wheel bead you’ll get too wide a measurement and this will throw off your offset calculation. Once you’ve correctly measured wheel width, divide this measurement by 2 to get the wheel’s centerline.
So on the 9” wide wheel above, the centerline is 4.5”.To calculate offset, now all you need to do is subtract the centerline measurement from the backspacing measurement. So if the backspacing measurement is 5.88” and the centerline is 4.5”, then you’ve got a a positive offset of 1.38” or 35mm, just like those Enkei wheels were marked with. Congrats, you’re now an offset calculating ninja!The other measurement that’s important to consider when shopping for wheels is bore center. This is simply the diameter of the wheel’s center bore that is meant to be seated on the hub so that the wheel is perfectly centered and balanced forzero vibrations at speed. You can use centering rings to fit wheels with larger center bores than your vehicle’s hub diameter, but be sure not to buy wheels with a center bore smaller than your hub diameter because in most cases you really shouldn’t have the wheel’s center bore machined out to a larger diameter because this will compromising its structural integrity. Source: of course you also need to have the correct wheel bolt circle or bolt pattern for your vehicle’s hubs, since changing the hub bolt pattern requires swapping hubs or using hub adapters, both of which are expensive and impractical in most cases. As you can see from the image above, bolt pattern is simply the distance between bolt holes or stud holes on opposite sides of the wheel.
Note that in the case of 5-lug wheels you measure from the center of one bolt hole to the backside of one of the opposing bolt holes.Ok, so now that we’ve covered wheel anatomy basics, lets take a quick look at how wheel diameter and wheel width effect performance.Source: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/C-Zero/0000041.jpgoriginal. Source: diameter can have a major impact on fitment, since a larger diameter wheel than the car was designed for can sometimes mean you’re stuck running a “taller” tire (greater overall diameter) because you can’t get a tire with a low enough aspect ratio (or short enough sidewall). This will result in the car either having a raised ride height, or if you lower it to compensate you’ll end up with reduced fender to tire clearance. Plus a taller tire has the effect of lengthening gearing, which hurts acceleration but helps top speed (not a good trade-off since you do a lot more accelerating than you do top speed runs).
So be sure to factor in the overall diameter of your wheel and tire package when considering how much rubber you can stuff under the stock fenders and try to keep the overall diameter the same or even slightly smaller than stock if your focus is on performance. Or just stuff some chrome 22’s under your S2k and call it a day. The choice is yours.Here’s a handy dandy that shows the effects of changes in tire diameter on gearing.
Play around with this a bit and you’ll see what I mean about a taller tire changing gearing.Source: width can have a surprisingly large impact on performance too, especially tire performance since a wider wheel will effectively widen the tire’s contact patch and will also put some tension into the sidewalls which helps sharpen turn-in response and reduces sidewall deflection and contact patch distortion. In fact, a number of reputable sources have tested increasing wheel width on the same size tire and found that for every inch of wheel width added, lap times are reduced by about half a second per minute of elapsed time. Of course there are a lot of variables at work here, including the track itself, the tire in use, suspension and alignment setup, etc. But in general and within reason, a wider wheel will deliver better tire performance, and nothing matters more than tire performance when it comes to turning faster lap times.A more aggressive (less positive) offset also has its advantages, since this pushes the wheels and tires out further and effectively widens the track of the vehicle. As I learned when experimenting with wheel spacers on my CTCC Honda Civic, even a 5mm spacer on the front wheels can noticeably improve front grip and change handling balance too (in either a negative or positive way, depending on how the rest of the car is setup), so be prepared to do some fine tuning of your suspension settings if you start to make changes to track width via more aggressively offset wheels, especially if you just widen track width across one axle. Source: so it’s finally time to bust out the tape measure and figure out how much wheel and tire you can fit in your wheel wells.
Huge range of FREE workouts for men. Download men's workouts for muscle building, fat loss, abs, chest and more from Muscle & Strength. There are plenty of workout routines out there for men, so what is it about these routines that are so special? Well, they are tailormade to each unique individual, rather than covering a broad demographic. Basically, each routine is engineered towards an individual’s ability levels and fitness levels in the gym. 
For a beginner's workout to be effective, the full-body program should incorporate high-volume training, increased intensity, and workout splits to achieve significant muscular gains, also known as hypertrophy. This will help you build muscle size and strength.
I like the L-square ruler approach like you can see in the image above as an easy and fairly accurate way to measure out from the face of the hub to the fender lip as well as back into the wheel well. It’s important to have the hub in a position that simulates the car being on the ground, so I use a floor jack to raise the knuckle to the position it would be in if the suspension was under load. Source: 17×10 +45 ‘s clear everything in the wheel wells, but as you can see the fenders have been rolled and pulled a fair bit for clearance on the outboard side. How will they fit with our over fender setup?Our friend Chris is running the same over fender combo we’re going to be, and his 18×9.5 +35 Volk Racing RE30’s appear to fit quite well, but he told us the front fenders needed to be trimmed along the fender lips to stop the rubbing. Pictures on the Internet can be deceiving, so we’ll be test fitting our over fenders, taking some measurements, and perhaps using some of our 5×114.3 wheels and tires from around the shop to see if we can hit on a wheel width, offset and backspacing, and tire size that we’re confident will work. Expect to see a video an a story on this process sometime this winter.
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So I draft property surveys for a civil engineering company and we must measure the distances between every fence survey point and the x and y property boundary lines, while also including the direction of the offset. To do this we must find the correct, manually measure the x and y offsets (which involves temporarily extending the property boundary if the point falls outside of it), and typing each into the preset's text.My question is: seeing as our property boundaries are always the only thing on their layer, is there any way to perform automatic annotations of both of these offset distances and directions from the boundary lines to the fence points, such that the end result is in the format of the linked preset?Any thoughts would be appreciated!.
I think the things that will make this a lot easier for you are fields and multileaders. A few changes will need to be made to your setup. I'm assuming you're at least using a recent Autocad full version and not 2004 LT hopefully.First use a multileader for your fence callout that way you won't have to have different versions for if the leader goes right or left. You just click and drag the arrow where you need it and it will snap to the left or right side of the text.Next you will have to create a new layer that will not be printed so either set it to no plot or viewport freeze it. This will have a single object for each of these callouts, a line.
The line will be referenced by the text object in a field with the X and Y deltas. You may have to get a bit creative with the arrows that you are wanting but I think this is a good starting point.The nice thing about these text/field and line combos is that if you copy the line with the text, the new copy of each will be linked to each other now, not the original. This way you can copy as many as you need from a single source and just move them around., use CTRL+F while editing a text object to insert a field. Select Object from the first dropdown, then select an object with the button with crosshair icon, select a line, then format the output as needed.
You will want to set it to Delta so that the X and Y distance of the line is the number created. Format the precision to 1 decimal places, add a ' suffix and you're good to go. Yeah, I'm using AutoCAD Civil 3D 2016.Judging by your description and image, I'm very hopeful!
I hate to ask this of you, but would you be able to go a little more step by step with me? I'm relatively new to AutoCAD but have a decent working knowledge, though I'm lacking some of the jargon. I know what a multimeter is and that you can create different styles, but I'm not certain what all the different settings in the multileader style menu do. I'm also not sure how you would be able to make the two little arrows move/snap with the multileade text. And most importantly I'm not sure how you mean for me to go about making the measurements, in the multileader text, reference the length attribute of a line on a different layer.I cannot thank you enough for the response and hopefully your continued assistance.
This could really make a huge difference in my workflow!. Video would be insanely helpful, if you've got the time! I'm thinking that maybe it would be easiest just to make four different multileader styles that each reference a different block with each of the arrow configurations.
So long as the text in those blocks can reference something that automatically measures the distance that I need.What did the negative numbers you're referring to be if the point lies on the outside of the boundary? If so, I'm hoping there's a way to do absolute value because I need to call them out whether they are inside or outside of the boundary lines. For the multileader style, our standard is 0.1' for paperspace text height, so I make all of the values that I highlighted match that. The drawing scale value will scale it all up appropriately.
Sometimes the leader needs to be a bit larger, 0.125 instead of 0.1 for instance, for extra visibility.Always draw those lines from left to right, down to up. This will ensure they're always positive numbers.
Note that for the X field, the Y doesn't even matter so they don't have to be perpendicular to the property lines you're dealing with. If you copy it over and can't get them to be positive, just delete them and redraw.
When the field turns into '#####', just double click it and reselect the new line you've drawn. Those lines can be on any layer, even frozen, and the fields will still be correct.Fields re-evaluate the numbers according to your setting of FIELDEVAL, = 31 will make them update most frequently, with REGEN being my default method but SAVE will as well. Hey, so I finally got the opportunity to mess around with this yesterday. The whole x-component of a line's delta definitely opened some doors for me, thank you! I'd not known about fields, so this is a whole aspect of AutoCAD I'd been totally ignorant to.
I realize, now, that this wasn't clear from the image I sent, but the only reason I have different presets for when the multileader is on either side of because when it and the x/y measurements flip, it takes way to much time to position the little arrows. So they're already in a multileader, but it saves time to know which side I'm placing the call out.I've also been messing around with the survey toolspace features, where you can automatically draw figures. Unfortunately my company doesn't seem to have any set standards for naming points, as far as code modifiers are concerned (e.g. Building corners are BDC, but there's no modifier like 'in' or 'out', or sometimes curved lines in pavement are notated, but usually not). So I don't know if it's a lost cause to be paying with those features or not.
I feel like if there was a figure setting to treat all points with the same names as corners, or the perimeter of a shape, it'd work just fine. But I'm probably wrong, I always think automating stuff is gonna be far easier than it ever turns out to be haha.Thanks again, man!.
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The right backspacing can mean the difference between your new wheels and tires fitting. There isn\'t an easy or accurate way to measure the offset of a wheel. Is There A Cure If the Backspacing On A Wheel Is Wrong? So without further ranting from me, here’s my list of 6 scenarios where using a hyphen is just plain wrong. Precursory note: WordPress auto-converted some of the hyphens in my examples to “en dashes,” a punctuation mark slightly wider than a hyphen, which.may. make them look correct.
Having added a few new cars to our project car fleet lately (more on those soon), and with wide fenders going on the S2000, we’ve been doing a lot of wheel fitment research lately. The problem with researching this subject online is the definition of “does it fit?” varies a lot from person to person. The Stance dudes think anything fits with enough camber and enough fender pulling, while grassroots racers like us tend to have a stricter definition since we’re focused more on functional wheel alignment and full suspension travel and steering angle without fender or wheel well or control arm contact.That said, as we proved with the ASS2000, we’re not afraid to aggressively roll and pull fenders to fit wider wheels and tires in the name of more grip and faster lap times. But since we’re putting some Downforce USA +30mm front fenders and ASM +25mm rear over-fenders on the car, we really need to nail the offset of the 17×10” wheels we’re planning to order this winter if we want to avoid putting a hurting on these. The idea is, after all, to make the S2000 as pretty as it is fast while also allowing us to fit an even wider set of wheels and tires.Point being, selecting the right wheel size and fit for your car is absolutely critical if you’re trying to maximize performance and minimize clearance issues with the fender lips and within the wheel wells.
Mi Flash Tool - Download the latest and Official Xiaomi Flash Tool 2019 for Xiaomi Redmi / Mi Smartphones and Tablets from the Official Xiaomi Mi Flash Tool Website. Mi flash tool 2019.
But before we get to some practical guidelines for selecting the best wheel fitment for your car, lets quickly review what wheel offset, back spacing, bolt circle diameter (or PCD) and center bore are so that you can better make sense of the ways wheel manufacturers list their products. Source: offset if the first place most people start when selecting new rolling stock for their street car or track car, and for good reason. As the diagram above illustrates, offset is a measurement of how far inboard (negative offset) or outboard (positive offset) the back of the wheel’s mating surface (axle pad) is from the wheel’s cross-sectional centerline. To achieve that deep dish or concave face everyone wants on their wheels these days, you either need a wheel with less positive/more negative offset or you need a wheel that has a spoke design with some outward curvature that creates the illusion of concavity.Measuring offset yourself it quite easy, but also keep in mind that most wheels have the offset cast or stamped into the backside of the wheel somewhere, often on the back of the spokes or axle pad. As you can see above on an wheel the size is cast in the back of the axle pad with a 17x8J (meaning the wheel is 17” in diameter and 8” wide) and the +35mm offset is cast in where it reads ‘Inset 35’.
Source: lets say you’re looking at buying a used set of wheels and the sticker or casting mark with offset information is missing. To determine offset you start by measuring backspacing by taking a measurement from the inboard flange or inside lip of the wheel to the back of the axle pad on the flat surface where the wheel would sit flush against the hub when bolted down. This distance gives you your backspacing. Make sure to measure from the flange, not the bead lip which often pokes out further than the flange. Source: you need to take a measurement of total wheel width by simply measuring the distance from the inside of the inboard and outboard lips or wheel beads. This is critical to get right, since if you measure from the outside of the wheel bead you’ll get too wide a measurement and this will throw off your offset calculation. Once you’ve correctly measured wheel width, divide this measurement by 2 to get the wheel’s centerline.
So on the 9” wide wheel above, the centerline is 4.5”.To calculate offset, now all you need to do is subtract the centerline measurement from the backspacing measurement. So if the backspacing measurement is 5.88” and the centerline is 4.5”, then you’ve got a a positive offset of 1.38” or 35mm, just like those Enkei wheels were marked with. Congrats, you’re now an offset calculating ninja!The other measurement that’s important to consider when shopping for wheels is bore center. This is simply the diameter of the wheel’s center bore that is meant to be seated on the hub so that the wheel is perfectly centered and balanced forzero vibrations at speed. You can use centering rings to fit wheels with larger center bores than your vehicle’s hub diameter, but be sure not to buy wheels with a center bore smaller than your hub diameter because in most cases you really shouldn’t have the wheel’s center bore machined out to a larger diameter because this will compromising its structural integrity. Source: of course you also need to have the correct wheel bolt circle or bolt pattern for your vehicle’s hubs, since changing the hub bolt pattern requires swapping hubs or using hub adapters, both of which are expensive and impractical in most cases. As you can see from the image above, bolt pattern is simply the distance between bolt holes or stud holes on opposite sides of the wheel.
Note that in the case of 5-lug wheels you measure from the center of one bolt hole to the backside of one of the opposing bolt holes.Ok, so now that we’ve covered wheel anatomy basics, lets take a quick look at how wheel diameter and wheel width effect performance.Source: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/C-Zero/0000041.jpgoriginal. Source: diameter can have a major impact on fitment, since a larger diameter wheel than the car was designed for can sometimes mean you’re stuck running a “taller” tire (greater overall diameter) because you can’t get a tire with a low enough aspect ratio (or short enough sidewall). This will result in the car either having a raised ride height, or if you lower it to compensate you’ll end up with reduced fender to tire clearance. Plus a taller tire has the effect of lengthening gearing, which hurts acceleration but helps top speed (not a good trade-off since you do a lot more accelerating than you do top speed runs).
So be sure to factor in the overall diameter of your wheel and tire package when considering how much rubber you can stuff under the stock fenders and try to keep the overall diameter the same or even slightly smaller than stock if your focus is on performance. Or just stuff some chrome 22’s under your S2k and call it a day. The choice is yours.Here’s a handy dandy that shows the effects of changes in tire diameter on gearing.
Play around with this a bit and you’ll see what I mean about a taller tire changing gearing.Source: width can have a surprisingly large impact on performance too, especially tire performance since a wider wheel will effectively widen the tire’s contact patch and will also put some tension into the sidewalls which helps sharpen turn-in response and reduces sidewall deflection and contact patch distortion. In fact, a number of reputable sources have tested increasing wheel width on the same size tire and found that for every inch of wheel width added, lap times are reduced by about half a second per minute of elapsed time. Of course there are a lot of variables at work here, including the track itself, the tire in use, suspension and alignment setup, etc. But in general and within reason, a wider wheel will deliver better tire performance, and nothing matters more than tire performance when it comes to turning faster lap times.A more aggressive (less positive) offset also has its advantages, since this pushes the wheels and tires out further and effectively widens the track of the vehicle. As I learned when experimenting with wheel spacers on my CTCC Honda Civic, even a 5mm spacer on the front wheels can noticeably improve front grip and change handling balance too (in either a negative or positive way, depending on how the rest of the car is setup), so be prepared to do some fine tuning of your suspension settings if you start to make changes to track width via more aggressively offset wheels, especially if you just widen track width across one axle. Source: so it’s finally time to bust out the tape measure and figure out how much wheel and tire you can fit in your wheel wells.
Huge range of FREE workouts for men. Download men\'s workouts for muscle building, fat loss, abs, chest and more from Muscle & Strength. There are plenty of workout routines out there for men, so what is it about these routines that are so special? Well, they are tailormade to each unique individual, rather than covering a broad demographic. Basically, each routine is engineered towards an individual’s ability levels and fitness levels in the gym.
For a beginner\'s workout to be effective, the full-body program should incorporate high-volume training, increased intensity, and workout splits to achieve significant muscular gains, also known as hypertrophy. This will help you build muscle size and strength.I like the L-square ruler approach like you can see in the image above as an easy and fairly accurate way to measure out from the face of the hub to the fender lip as well as back into the wheel well. It’s important to have the hub in a position that simulates the car being on the ground, so I use a floor jack to raise the knuckle to the position it would be in if the suspension was under load. Source: 17×10 +45 ‘s clear everything in the wheel wells, but as you can see the fenders have been rolled and pulled a fair bit for clearance on the outboard side. How will they fit with our over fender setup?Our friend Chris is running the same over fender combo we’re going to be, and his 18×9.5 +35 Volk Racing RE30’s appear to fit quite well, but he told us the front fenders needed to be trimmed along the fender lips to stop the rubbing. Pictures on the Internet can be deceiving, so we’ll be test fitting our over fenders, taking some measurements, and perhaps using some of our 5×114.3 wheels and tires from around the shop to see if we can hit on a wheel width, offset and backspacing, and tire size that we’re confident will work. Expect to see a video an a story on this process sometime this winter.
A great place to ask questions, give tips, and share knowledge all about AutoCAD.AutoCAD HelpTips, LISP Routines, & MacrosFlair SearchPosting Guidelines. Be nice to each other. Please read Reddiquette if you think your comment or post may be inappropriate. Clearly state or summarize your problem in the title of your post. More detail about the problem, what you\'re trying to do, why, what you have tried (google searches, documentation pages, screenshots, etc).
DO NOT ASK FOR OR POST ABOUT ILLEGAL WAYS OF OBTAINING SOFTWARE, CRACKS, KEYGENS, ETC. The post/comment will be removed.PC Builds (See Wiki for Additional Info)Related Subreddits.
So I draft property surveys for a civil engineering company and we must measure the distances between every fence survey point and the x and y property boundary lines, while also including the direction of the offset. To do this we must find the correct, manually measure the x and y offsets (which involves temporarily extending the property boundary if the point falls outside of it), and typing each into the preset\'s text.My question is: seeing as our property boundaries are always the only thing on their layer, is there any way to perform automatic annotations of both of these offset distances and directions from the boundary lines to the fence points, such that the end result is in the format of the linked preset?Any thoughts would be appreciated!.
I think the things that will make this a lot easier for you are fields and multileaders. A few changes will need to be made to your setup. I\'m assuming you\'re at least using a recent Autocad full version and not 2004 LT hopefully.First use a multileader for your fence callout that way you won\'t have to have different versions for if the leader goes right or left. You just click and drag the arrow where you need it and it will snap to the left or right side of the text.Next you will have to create a new layer that will not be printed so either set it to no plot or viewport freeze it. This will have a single object for each of these callouts, a line.
The line will be referenced by the text object in a field with the X and Y deltas. You may have to get a bit creative with the arrows that you are wanting but I think this is a good starting point.The nice thing about these text/field and line combos is that if you copy the line with the text, the new copy of each will be linked to each other now, not the original. This way you can copy as many as you need from a single source and just move them around., use CTRL+F while editing a text object to insert a field. Select Object from the first dropdown, then select an object with the button with crosshair icon, select a line, then format the output as needed.
You will want to set it to Delta so that the X and Y distance of the line is the number created. Format the precision to 1 decimal places, add a \' suffix and you\'re good to go. Yeah, I\'m using AutoCAD Civil 3D 2016.Judging by your description and image, I\'m very hopeful!
I hate to ask this of you, but would you be able to go a little more step by step with me? I\'m relatively new to AutoCAD but have a decent working knowledge, though I\'m lacking some of the jargon. I know what a multimeter is and that you can create different styles, but I\'m not certain what all the different settings in the multileader style menu do. I\'m also not sure how you would be able to make the two little arrows move/snap with the multileade text. And most importantly I\'m not sure how you mean for me to go about making the measurements, in the multileader text, reference the length attribute of a line on a different layer.I cannot thank you enough for the response and hopefully your continued assistance.
This could really make a huge difference in my workflow!. Video would be insanely helpful, if you\'ve got the time! I\'m thinking that maybe it would be easiest just to make four different multileader styles that each reference a different block with each of the arrow configurations.
So long as the text in those blocks can reference something that automatically measures the distance that I need.What did the negative numbers you\'re referring to be if the point lies on the outside of the boundary? If so, I\'m hoping there\'s a way to do absolute value because I need to call them out whether they are inside or outside of the boundary lines. For the multileader style, our standard is 0.1\' for paperspace text height, so I make all of the values that I highlighted match that. The drawing scale value will scale it all up appropriately.
Sometimes the leader needs to be a bit larger, 0.125 instead of 0.1 for instance, for extra visibility.Always draw those lines from left to right, down to up. This will ensure they\'re always positive numbers.
Note that for the X field, the Y doesn\'t even matter so they don\'t have to be perpendicular to the property lines you\'re dealing with. If you copy it over and can\'t get them to be positive, just delete them and redraw.
When the field turns into \'#####\', just double click it and reselect the new line you\'ve drawn. Those lines can be on any layer, even frozen, and the fields will still be correct.Fields re-evaluate the numbers according to your setting of FIELDEVAL, = 31 will make them update most frequently, with REGEN being my default method but SAVE will as well. Hey, so I finally got the opportunity to mess around with this yesterday. The whole x-component of a line\'s delta definitely opened some doors for me, thank you! I\'d not known about fields, so this is a whole aspect of AutoCAD I\'d been totally ignorant to.
I realize, now, that this wasn\'t clear from the image I sent, but the only reason I have different presets for when the multileader is on either side of because when it and the x/y measurements flip, it takes way to much time to position the little arrows. So they\'re already in a multileader, but it saves time to know which side I\'m placing the call out.I\'ve also been messing around with the survey toolspace features, where you can automatically draw figures. Unfortunately my company doesn\'t seem to have any set standards for naming points, as far as code modifiers are concerned (e.g. Building corners are BDC, but there\'s no modifier like \'in\' or \'out\', or sometimes curved lines in pavement are notated, but usually not). So I don\'t know if it\'s a lost cause to be paying with those features or not.
I feel like if there was a figure setting to treat all points with the same names as corners, or the perimeter of a shape, it\'d work just fine. But I\'m probably wrong, I always think automating stuff is gonna be far easier than it ever turns out to be haha.Thanks again, man!.
...'>Offset Distance Wrong In 2015, How To Correct It(11.02.2020)The right backspacing can mean the difference between your new wheels and tires fitting. There isn\'t an easy or accurate way to measure the offset of a wheel. Is There A Cure If the Backspacing On A Wheel Is Wrong? So without further ranting from me, here’s my list of 6 scenarios where using a hyphen is just plain wrong. Precursory note: WordPress auto-converted some of the hyphens in my examples to “en dashes,” a punctuation mark slightly wider than a hyphen, which.may. make them look correct.
Having added a few new cars to our project car fleet lately (more on those soon), and with wide fenders going on the S2000, we’ve been doing a lot of wheel fitment research lately. The problem with researching this subject online is the definition of “does it fit?” varies a lot from person to person. The Stance dudes think anything fits with enough camber and enough fender pulling, while grassroots racers like us tend to have a stricter definition since we’re focused more on functional wheel alignment and full suspension travel and steering angle without fender or wheel well or control arm contact.That said, as we proved with the ASS2000, we’re not afraid to aggressively roll and pull fenders to fit wider wheels and tires in the name of more grip and faster lap times. But since we’re putting some Downforce USA +30mm front fenders and ASM +25mm rear over-fenders on the car, we really need to nail the offset of the 17×10” wheels we’re planning to order this winter if we want to avoid putting a hurting on these. The idea is, after all, to make the S2000 as pretty as it is fast while also allowing us to fit an even wider set of wheels and tires.Point being, selecting the right wheel size and fit for your car is absolutely critical if you’re trying to maximize performance and minimize clearance issues with the fender lips and within the wheel wells.
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But before we get to some practical guidelines for selecting the best wheel fitment for your car, lets quickly review what wheel offset, back spacing, bolt circle diameter (or PCD) and center bore are so that you can better make sense of the ways wheel manufacturers list their products. Source: offset if the first place most people start when selecting new rolling stock for their street car or track car, and for good reason. As the diagram above illustrates, offset is a measurement of how far inboard (negative offset) or outboard (positive offset) the back of the wheel’s mating surface (axle pad) is from the wheel’s cross-sectional centerline. To achieve that deep dish or concave face everyone wants on their wheels these days, you either need a wheel with less positive/more negative offset or you need a wheel that has a spoke design with some outward curvature that creates the illusion of concavity.Measuring offset yourself it quite easy, but also keep in mind that most wheels have the offset cast or stamped into the backside of the wheel somewhere, often on the back of the spokes or axle pad. As you can see above on an wheel the size is cast in the back of the axle pad with a 17x8J (meaning the wheel is 17” in diameter and 8” wide) and the +35mm offset is cast in where it reads ‘Inset 35’.
Source: lets say you’re looking at buying a used set of wheels and the sticker or casting mark with offset information is missing. To determine offset you start by measuring backspacing by taking a measurement from the inboard flange or inside lip of the wheel to the back of the axle pad on the flat surface where the wheel would sit flush against the hub when bolted down. This distance gives you your backspacing. Make sure to measure from the flange, not the bead lip which often pokes out further than the flange. Source: you need to take a measurement of total wheel width by simply measuring the distance from the inside of the inboard and outboard lips or wheel beads. This is critical to get right, since if you measure from the outside of the wheel bead you’ll get too wide a measurement and this will throw off your offset calculation. Once you’ve correctly measured wheel width, divide this measurement by 2 to get the wheel’s centerline.
So on the 9” wide wheel above, the centerline is 4.5”.To calculate offset, now all you need to do is subtract the centerline measurement from the backspacing measurement. So if the backspacing measurement is 5.88” and the centerline is 4.5”, then you’ve got a a positive offset of 1.38” or 35mm, just like those Enkei wheels were marked with. Congrats, you’re now an offset calculating ninja!The other measurement that’s important to consider when shopping for wheels is bore center. This is simply the diameter of the wheel’s center bore that is meant to be seated on the hub so that the wheel is perfectly centered and balanced forzero vibrations at speed. You can use centering rings to fit wheels with larger center bores than your vehicle’s hub diameter, but be sure not to buy wheels with a center bore smaller than your hub diameter because in most cases you really shouldn’t have the wheel’s center bore machined out to a larger diameter because this will compromising its structural integrity. Source: of course you also need to have the correct wheel bolt circle or bolt pattern for your vehicle’s hubs, since changing the hub bolt pattern requires swapping hubs or using hub adapters, both of which are expensive and impractical in most cases. As you can see from the image above, bolt pattern is simply the distance between bolt holes or stud holes on opposite sides of the wheel.
Note that in the case of 5-lug wheels you measure from the center of one bolt hole to the backside of one of the opposing bolt holes.Ok, so now that we’ve covered wheel anatomy basics, lets take a quick look at how wheel diameter and wheel width effect performance.Source: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/C-Zero/0000041.jpgoriginal. Source: diameter can have a major impact on fitment, since a larger diameter wheel than the car was designed for can sometimes mean you’re stuck running a “taller” tire (greater overall diameter) because you can’t get a tire with a low enough aspect ratio (or short enough sidewall). This will result in the car either having a raised ride height, or if you lower it to compensate you’ll end up with reduced fender to tire clearance. Plus a taller tire has the effect of lengthening gearing, which hurts acceleration but helps top speed (not a good trade-off since you do a lot more accelerating than you do top speed runs).
So be sure to factor in the overall diameter of your wheel and tire package when considering how much rubber you can stuff under the stock fenders and try to keep the overall diameter the same or even slightly smaller than stock if your focus is on performance. Or just stuff some chrome 22’s under your S2k and call it a day. The choice is yours.Here’s a handy dandy that shows the effects of changes in tire diameter on gearing.
Play around with this a bit and you’ll see what I mean about a taller tire changing gearing.Source: width can have a surprisingly large impact on performance too, especially tire performance since a wider wheel will effectively widen the tire’s contact patch and will also put some tension into the sidewalls which helps sharpen turn-in response and reduces sidewall deflection and contact patch distortion. In fact, a number of reputable sources have tested increasing wheel width on the same size tire and found that for every inch of wheel width added, lap times are reduced by about half a second per minute of elapsed time. Of course there are a lot of variables at work here, including the track itself, the tire in use, suspension and alignment setup, etc. But in general and within reason, a wider wheel will deliver better tire performance, and nothing matters more than tire performance when it comes to turning faster lap times.A more aggressive (less positive) offset also has its advantages, since this pushes the wheels and tires out further and effectively widens the track of the vehicle. As I learned when experimenting with wheel spacers on my CTCC Honda Civic, even a 5mm spacer on the front wheels can noticeably improve front grip and change handling balance too (in either a negative or positive way, depending on how the rest of the car is setup), so be prepared to do some fine tuning of your suspension settings if you start to make changes to track width via more aggressively offset wheels, especially if you just widen track width across one axle. Source: so it’s finally time to bust out the tape measure and figure out how much wheel and tire you can fit in your wheel wells.
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For a beginner\'s workout to be effective, the full-body program should incorporate high-volume training, increased intensity, and workout splits to achieve significant muscular gains, also known as hypertrophy. This will help you build muscle size and strength.I like the L-square ruler approach like you can see in the image above as an easy and fairly accurate way to measure out from the face of the hub to the fender lip as well as back into the wheel well. It’s important to have the hub in a position that simulates the car being on the ground, so I use a floor jack to raise the knuckle to the position it would be in if the suspension was under load. Source: 17×10 +45 ‘s clear everything in the wheel wells, but as you can see the fenders have been rolled and pulled a fair bit for clearance on the outboard side. How will they fit with our over fender setup?Our friend Chris is running the same over fender combo we’re going to be, and his 18×9.5 +35 Volk Racing RE30’s appear to fit quite well, but he told us the front fenders needed to be trimmed along the fender lips to stop the rubbing. Pictures on the Internet can be deceiving, so we’ll be test fitting our over fenders, taking some measurements, and perhaps using some of our 5×114.3 wheels and tires from around the shop to see if we can hit on a wheel width, offset and backspacing, and tire size that we’re confident will work. Expect to see a video an a story on this process sometime this winter.
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So I draft property surveys for a civil engineering company and we must measure the distances between every fence survey point and the x and y property boundary lines, while also including the direction of the offset. To do this we must find the correct, manually measure the x and y offsets (which involves temporarily extending the property boundary if the point falls outside of it), and typing each into the preset\'s text.My question is: seeing as our property boundaries are always the only thing on their layer, is there any way to perform automatic annotations of both of these offset distances and directions from the boundary lines to the fence points, such that the end result is in the format of the linked preset?Any thoughts would be appreciated!.
I think the things that will make this a lot easier for you are fields and multileaders. A few changes will need to be made to your setup. I\'m assuming you\'re at least using a recent Autocad full version and not 2004 LT hopefully.First use a multileader for your fence callout that way you won\'t have to have different versions for if the leader goes right or left. You just click and drag the arrow where you need it and it will snap to the left or right side of the text.Next you will have to create a new layer that will not be printed so either set it to no plot or viewport freeze it. This will have a single object for each of these callouts, a line.
The line will be referenced by the text object in a field with the X and Y deltas. You may have to get a bit creative with the arrows that you are wanting but I think this is a good starting point.The nice thing about these text/field and line combos is that if you copy the line with the text, the new copy of each will be linked to each other now, not the original. This way you can copy as many as you need from a single source and just move them around., use CTRL+F while editing a text object to insert a field. Select Object from the first dropdown, then select an object with the button with crosshair icon, select a line, then format the output as needed.
You will want to set it to Delta so that the X and Y distance of the line is the number created. Format the precision to 1 decimal places, add a \' suffix and you\'re good to go. Yeah, I\'m using AutoCAD Civil 3D 2016.Judging by your description and image, I\'m very hopeful!
I hate to ask this of you, but would you be able to go a little more step by step with me? I\'m relatively new to AutoCAD but have a decent working knowledge, though I\'m lacking some of the jargon. I know what a multimeter is and that you can create different styles, but I\'m not certain what all the different settings in the multileader style menu do. I\'m also not sure how you would be able to make the two little arrows move/snap with the multileade text. And most importantly I\'m not sure how you mean for me to go about making the measurements, in the multileader text, reference the length attribute of a line on a different layer.I cannot thank you enough for the response and hopefully your continued assistance.
This could really make a huge difference in my workflow!. Video would be insanely helpful, if you\'ve got the time! I\'m thinking that maybe it would be easiest just to make four different multileader styles that each reference a different block with each of the arrow configurations.
So long as the text in those blocks can reference something that automatically measures the distance that I need.What did the negative numbers you\'re referring to be if the point lies on the outside of the boundary? If so, I\'m hoping there\'s a way to do absolute value because I need to call them out whether they are inside or outside of the boundary lines. For the multileader style, our standard is 0.1\' for paperspace text height, so I make all of the values that I highlighted match that. The drawing scale value will scale it all up appropriately.
Sometimes the leader needs to be a bit larger, 0.125 instead of 0.1 for instance, for extra visibility.Always draw those lines from left to right, down to up. This will ensure they\'re always positive numbers.
Note that for the X field, the Y doesn\'t even matter so they don\'t have to be perpendicular to the property lines you\'re dealing with. If you copy it over and can\'t get them to be positive, just delete them and redraw.
When the field turns into \'#####\', just double click it and reselect the new line you\'ve drawn. Those lines can be on any layer, even frozen, and the fields will still be correct.Fields re-evaluate the numbers according to your setting of FIELDEVAL, = 31 will make them update most frequently, with REGEN being my default method but SAVE will as well. Hey, so I finally got the opportunity to mess around with this yesterday. The whole x-component of a line\'s delta definitely opened some doors for me, thank you! I\'d not known about fields, so this is a whole aspect of AutoCAD I\'d been totally ignorant to.
I realize, now, that this wasn\'t clear from the image I sent, but the only reason I have different presets for when the multileader is on either side of because when it and the x/y measurements flip, it takes way to much time to position the little arrows. So they\'re already in a multileader, but it saves time to know which side I\'m placing the call out.I\'ve also been messing around with the survey toolspace features, where you can automatically draw figures. Unfortunately my company doesn\'t seem to have any set standards for naming points, as far as code modifiers are concerned (e.g. Building corners are BDC, but there\'s no modifier like \'in\' or \'out\', or sometimes curved lines in pavement are notated, but usually not). So I don\'t know if it\'s a lost cause to be paying with those features or not.
I feel like if there was a figure setting to treat all points with the same names as corners, or the perimeter of a shape, it\'d work just fine. But I\'m probably wrong, I always think automating stuff is gonna be far easier than it ever turns out to be haha.Thanks again, man!.
...'>Offset Distance Wrong In 2015, How To Correct It(11.02.2020)