Bench Power Supply

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• Adjustable Bench Power SupplyI’ve built myself my own universal, adjustable bench power supply.This isn’t strictly astro stuff but the main reason I built it is to experiment with TFT backlight panels that I use for my lightboxes.I needed 5V and 12V to play around with the inverter boards and figure out their pin-out. I considered buying a bench power supply. But prices were too high, especially for ones with adjustable voltages. So I decided to build my own.This one has 4 outputs. One 5Volt, one 12V and two individually adjustable outputs going from about 1.5V to 19.5V. Each can draw up to 1.5Amp with a total of 3.5A for all together. The input is a standard replacement laptop power supply 20V, 3.5A.

  With a stronger external power supply the total output current can be higher, up to 1.5A per output. But currently the 3.5A is more than enough.Each of the adjustable outputs has its own little voltmeter built in.The fixed voltage regulators are based on a 7805 for the 5V and a 7812 for 12V. The two adjustable regulators are based on one LM317 each. I just had to built an acrylic case for it.

  Bench Top Power Supplies are available at Mouser Electronics. Mouser offers inventory, pricing, & datasheets for Bench Top Power Supplies.

  Here is the pictures of the various stages of building and the finished product.There is the board for the fixed 5V and 12V regulators.The LM117 series of adjustable 3-terminal positive voltage regulators is capable of supplying in excess of 1.5A over a 1.2V to 37V output range. They are exceptionally easy to use and require only two external resistors to set the output voltage. Further, both line and load regulation are better than standard fixed regulators.

  Also, the LM117 is packaged in standard transistor packages which are easily mounted and handled.In addition to higher performance than fixed regulators, the LM117 series offers full overload protection available only in IC\'s. Included on the chip are current limit, thermal overload protection and safe area protection. All overload protection circuitry remains fully functional even if the adjustment terminal is disconnected.Normally, no capacitors are needed unless the device is situated more than 6 inches from the input filter capacitors in which case an input bypass is needed. An optional output capacitor can be added to improve transient response.

  The adjustment terminal can be bypassed to achieve very high ripple rejection ratios which are difficult to achieve with standard 3-terminal regulators.Besides replacing fixed regulators, the LM117 is useful in a wide variety of other applications. Since the regulator is “floating” and sees only the input-to-output differential voltage, supplies of several hundred volts can be regulated as long as the maximum input to output differential is not exceeded, i.e., avoid short-circuiting the output.Also, it makes an especially simple adjustable switching regulator, a programmable output regulator, or by connecting a fixed resistor between the adjustment pin and output, the LM117 can be used as a precision current regulator. Supplies with electronic shutdown can be achieved by clamping the adjustment terminal to ground which programs the output to 1.2V where most loads draw little current.For applications requiring greater output current, see LM150 series (3A) and LM138 series (5A) data sheets. For the negative complement, see LM137 series data sheet. Build your own Accurate LC Meter (Capacitance Inductance Meter) and start making your own coils and inductors.

  This LC Meter allows to measure incredibly small inductances making it perfect tool for making all types of RF coils and inductors. LC Meter can measure inductances starting from 10nH - 1000nH, 1uH - 1000uH, 1mH - 100mH and capacitances from 0.1pF up to 900nF. The circuit includes an auto ranging as well as reset switch and produces very accurate and stable readings.Volt Ampere Meter measures voltage of 0-70V or 0-500V with 100mV resolution and current consumption 0-10A or more with 10mA resolution. The meter is a perfect addition to any power supply, battery chargers and other electronic projects where voltage and current must be monitored. The meter uses PIC16F876A microcontroller with 16x2 backlighted LCD. Be \'On Air\' with your own radio station! BA1404 HI-FI Stereo FM Transmitter broadcasts high quality stereo signal in 88MHz - 108MHz FM band.

  It can be connected to any type of stereo audio source such as iPod, Computer, Laptop, CD Player, Walkman, Television, Satellite Receiver, Tape Deck or other stereo system to transmit stereo sound with excellent clarity throughout your home, office, yard or camp ground.USB IO Board is a tiny spectacular little development board / parallel port replacement featuring PIC18F2455/PIC18F2550 microcontroller. USB IO Board is compatible with Windows / Mac OSX / Linux computers. When attached to Windows IO board will show up as RS232 COM port.

  The information does not usually directly identify you, but it can give you a more personalized web experience.Because we respect your right to privacy, you can choose not to allow some types of cookies. Click on the different category headings to find out more and change our default settings. Ample sound abj torrent download.

  You can control 16 individual microcontroller I/O pins by sending simple serial commands. USB IO Board is self-powered by USB port and can provide up to 500mA for electronic projects. USB IO Board is breadboard compatible. ESR Meter kit is an amazing multimeter that measures ESR values, capacitance (100pF - 20,000uF), inductance, resistance (0.1 Ohm - 20 MOhm),tests many different types of transistors such as NPN, PNP, FETs, MOSFETs, Thyristors, SCRs, Triacs and many types of diodes.It also analyzes transistor\'s characteristics such as voltage and gain. It is an irreplaceable tool for troubleshooting and repairing electronic equipment by determining performance and health of electrolytic capacitors.

  

  Unlike other ESR Meters that only measure ESR value this one measures capacitor\'s ESR value as well as its capacitance all at the same time.Audiophile headphone amplifier kit includes high quality audio grade components such as Burr Brown OPA2134 opamp, ALPS volume control potentiometer, Ti TLE2426 rail splitter, Ultra-Low ESR 220uF/25V Panasonic FM filtering capacitors, High quality WIMA input and decoupling capacitors and Vishay Dale resistors. 8-DIP machined IC socket allows to swap OPA2134 with many other dual opamp chips such as OPA2132, OPA2227, OPA2228, dual OPA132, OPA627, etc. Headphone amplifier is small enough to fit in Altoids tin box, and thanks to low power consumption may be supplied from a single 9V battery. Arduino Prototype is a spectacular development board fully compatible with Arduino Pro. It\'s breadboard compatible so it can be plugged into a breadboard for quick prototyping, and it has VCC & GND power pins available on both sides of PCB.

  It\'s small, power efficient, yet customizable through onboard 2 x 7 perfboard that can be used for connecting various sensors and connectors. Arduino Prototype uses all standard through-hole components for easy construction, two of which are hidden underneath IC socket. Board features 28-PIN DIP IC socket, user replaceable ATmega328 microcontroller flashed with Arduino bootloader, 16MHz crystal resonator and a reset switch. It has 14 digital input/output pins (0-13) of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs and 6 analog inputs (A0-A5). Arduino sketches are uploaded through any USB-Serial adapter connected to 6-PIN ICSP female header.

  Board is supplied by 2-5V voltage and may be powered by a battery such as Lithium Ion cell, two AA cells, external power supply or USB power adapter.Having the ability to control various appliances inside or outside of your house wirelessly is a huge convenience, and can make your life much easier and fun. RF remote control provides long range of up to 200m / 650ft and can find many uses for controlling different devices, and it works even through the walls.

  You can control lights, fans, AC system, computer, printer, amplifier, robots, garage door, security systems, motor-driven curtains, motorized window blinds, door locks, sprinklers, motorized projection screens and anything else you can think of.Electronics-DIY.com © 2002-2019. All Rights Reserved.

  An ideal workbench power supply should have both 5-volt and 12-volt outputs, with 3.3-volts being a nice option as well. It should be capable of providing several amperes of current for each voltage.You can buy bench power supplies of course, but they are not inexpensive. As the current capability and number of output voltages go up so does the price.While a commercial bench power supply is certainly a worthwhile investment there is a cheaper solution that you might want to consider. Adapt an old computer power supply to use on your workbench.Computer power supplies have all the voltages you’ll need and some very impressive current capabilities. And, thanks to mass production, they are cheap when compared to dedicated bench power supplies.In fact, if you have access to an old computer that is on its way to the junk heap you can rescue its power supply and put together a nice bench power supply for just a few dollars.That’s what I did actually – an old Windows XP desktop computer has now become a useful addition to my workshop. ATX SupplyATX ( Advanced Technology eXtended ) is a computer motherboard configuration developed by Intel in 1995. It still is the most common motherboard configuration.ATX Power supplies have standard sizes and connectors for use with ATX motherboards.

  There are actually a few different ATX power supplies, all of them are designed to provide 3.3, 5 and 12 volt outputs. Main Power ConnectorThe main power connector supplies power to the motherboard of the computer. It also has connections for power switches and indicators.There are two types of connectors commonly used here, an older 20-pin variety (Version 1) and a newer one (Version 2) with 24-pins. Both use Molex connectors.The unit I will be experimenting with uses an older 20-pin power supply connector.Here are the two power connectors.Note that the primary difference is that the 24-pin connector has additional voltage and ground lines.You’ll notice that many connections (i.e. Ground) have been repeated, this is done to increase the current carrying capability. The actual connections from the power supply are as follows:.

  Ground – (BLACK) – The Ground or reference. +5 V – (RED) – Positive 5 volts. +12 V – (YELLOW) – Positive 12 volts. +3.3 V – (ORANGE) – Positive 3.3 volts.12 V – (BLUE) – Negative 12 volts.5 V – (WHITE) – Negative 5 volts (not on later models).

  PS-ON – (GREEN) – Power Switch On. Connect to Ground to turn on the power supply. PG – (GREY) – Power Good.

  A status voltage that is 5 volts when power is good. 5V Standby – (PURPLE) – Standby voltage, 5-volts at up to 2 amps.

  On when supply is powered up.The output voltages are self-explanatory, I’m not planning on using any of the negative ones, but you can if you wish of course. Older ATX supplies (like the one I’m using) have a -5-volt output as well as a-12-volt one, newer (24-pin) Type 2 models only have the -12-volt output. Other Power ConnectorsThe ATX type power supplies also have other connectors, used to power up peripherals such as hard disks and DVD drives.These connectors have four connections. 5-Volts – Red.

  12-Volts – Yellow. Ground – Black (Two wires)I just plan to remove these from my power supply. I’m saving them as they may be useful in a future computer build.There is also a 12-volt 4-pin connector that is used to supply power to the motherboard CPU fan.

  Its connections are pretty simple:. 12-Volts – Yellow (Two wires). Ground – Black (Two wires)I’m planning on using the additional 12-volt wires in my final design so I will just be removing the Molex connector. Hooking it upAside from the ATX power supply itself, we will need a few additional components to build our bench supply.The exact parts list will vary depending upon what you want to build your supply into. Here is what I used to build my supply (not including the materials I used for an enclosure). ATX Power supply (mine was used form an old Windows XP Desktop, it has a 20-pin connector). Binding posts for outputs.

  Fuses and Fuse Holders (optional but I thought it was a good idea). 2 LEDS, any color, for Power On and Standby indicators.

  2 330-ohm dropping resistors for the LEDs. Power Switch. 8-20 ohm 10w power resistorAs I wasn’t able to find a 20-pin Molex connector to mate with the one on my power supply I had to cut the wires. I used an 8-pin terminal strip to make my connections from the power supply.I also elected to add a power meter to my project. I’ll have details on that near the end of the article. Hi,I am only a relative newbie but I have a query about the binding posts. The only ones I found are rated only up to 10 amps.

  Since both the 3.3 volt and 5 volt outputs can exceed this value by a very long margin, are these binding posts suitable if I intend to draw i.e. 20 amps from those supplies. To me it would seem that they are not suitable for current in excess of 10amps but, as said, I am relatively new to the field and might have made some incorrect assumptions.Thanks for any help here. I’d say for a beginner you’re a pretty smart cookie! You are absolutely correct, if you do plan on drawing large amounts of current than you would need bigger binding posts, something like these ones – If you only plan on using the supply for experiments with Arduino’s and sensors than you could get away with smaller ones.

  One thing to note is that most binding posts are rated at a very high voltage, the ones I linked to are rated at 500 volts. The power in wattage would be the voltage multiplied by the current. So Read more ». As far as I know; you are a precise guy. There is this part of the circuit that you very “vaguely” mentioned.

  These are the Top Ground Knob next to the left of meter and the two Red/Black ones that you called the load. ( How do you wire them???) I know you said that they are optional. Here is the confusion. Without some kind of Triple switch, I cannot SEE what voltage I selected!!!!!

  Also because I do not know how you wired these three nobs ( on top ) how do I know which voltage is producing Read more ». Sorry for the misnomer.but you knew what I meant. So, brilliantly you did this: I am using say 12 v +, rather than plug my load to the LOWER 12 v+ and it’s ground I used your magic cable to connect the 12 v to the METER left binding post. And use the upper binding post for the load.

  

  If I am correct the binding post; you named it Ground, should be called input voltage SELECTED. And your magic cable will go externally from lower left 12 v + to this binding post. Internally that binding post is connected Read more ».

  ...'>Bench Power Supply(03.03.2020)

• Adjustable Bench Power SupplyI’ve built myself my own universal, adjustable bench power supply.This isn’t strictly astro stuff but the main reason I built it is to experiment with TFT backlight panels that I use for my lightboxes.I needed 5V and 12V to play around with the inverter boards and figure out their pin-out. I considered buying a bench power supply. But prices were too high, especially for ones with adjustable voltages. So I decided to build my own.This one has 4 outputs. One 5Volt, one 12V and two individually adjustable outputs going from about 1.5V to 19.5V. Each can draw up to 1.5Amp with a total of 3.5A for all together. The input is a standard replacement laptop power supply 20V, 3.5A.

  With a stronger external power supply the total output current can be higher, up to 1.5A per output. But currently the 3.5A is more than enough.Each of the adjustable outputs has its own little voltmeter built in.The fixed voltage regulators are based on a 7805 for the 5V and a 7812 for 12V. The two adjustable regulators are based on one LM317 each. I just had to built an acrylic case for it.

  Bench Top Power Supplies are available at Mouser Electronics. Mouser offers inventory, pricing, & datasheets for Bench Top Power Supplies.

  Here is the pictures of the various stages of building and the finished product.There is the board for the fixed 5V and 12V regulators.The LM117 series of adjustable 3-terminal positive voltage regulators is capable of supplying in excess of 1.5A over a 1.2V to 37V output range. They are exceptionally easy to use and require only two external resistors to set the output voltage. Further, both line and load regulation are better than standard fixed regulators.

  Also, the LM117 is packaged in standard transistor packages which are easily mounted and handled.In addition to higher performance than fixed regulators, the LM117 series offers full overload protection available only in IC\'s. Included on the chip are current limit, thermal overload protection and safe area protection. All overload protection circuitry remains fully functional even if the adjustment terminal is disconnected.Normally, no capacitors are needed unless the device is situated more than 6 inches from the input filter capacitors in which case an input bypass is needed. An optional output capacitor can be added to improve transient response.

  The adjustment terminal can be bypassed to achieve very high ripple rejection ratios which are difficult to achieve with standard 3-terminal regulators.Besides replacing fixed regulators, the LM117 is useful in a wide variety of other applications. Since the regulator is “floating” and sees only the input-to-output differential voltage, supplies of several hundred volts can be regulated as long as the maximum input to output differential is not exceeded, i.e., avoid short-circuiting the output.Also, it makes an especially simple adjustable switching regulator, a programmable output regulator, or by connecting a fixed resistor between the adjustment pin and output, the LM117 can be used as a precision current regulator. Supplies with electronic shutdown can be achieved by clamping the adjustment terminal to ground which programs the output to 1.2V where most loads draw little current.For applications requiring greater output current, see LM150 series (3A) and LM138 series (5A) data sheets. For the negative complement, see LM137 series data sheet. Build your own Accurate LC Meter (Capacitance Inductance Meter) and start making your own coils and inductors.

  This LC Meter allows to measure incredibly small inductances making it perfect tool for making all types of RF coils and inductors. LC Meter can measure inductances starting from 10nH - 1000nH, 1uH - 1000uH, 1mH - 100mH and capacitances from 0.1pF up to 900nF. The circuit includes an auto ranging as well as reset switch and produces very accurate and stable readings.Volt Ampere Meter measures voltage of 0-70V or 0-500V with 100mV resolution and current consumption 0-10A or more with 10mA resolution. The meter is a perfect addition to any power supply, battery chargers and other electronic projects where voltage and current must be monitored. The meter uses PIC16F876A microcontroller with 16x2 backlighted LCD. Be \'On Air\' with your own radio station! BA1404 HI-FI Stereo FM Transmitter broadcasts high quality stereo signal in 88MHz - 108MHz FM band.

  It can be connected to any type of stereo audio source such as iPod, Computer, Laptop, CD Player, Walkman, Television, Satellite Receiver, Tape Deck or other stereo system to transmit stereo sound with excellent clarity throughout your home, office, yard or camp ground.USB IO Board is a tiny spectacular little development board / parallel port replacement featuring PIC18F2455/PIC18F2550 microcontroller. USB IO Board is compatible with Windows / Mac OSX / Linux computers. When attached to Windows IO board will show up as RS232 COM port.

  The information does not usually directly identify you, but it can give you a more personalized web experience.Because we respect your right to privacy, you can choose not to allow some types of cookies. Click on the different category headings to find out more and change our default settings. Ample sound abj torrent download.

  You can control 16 individual microcontroller I/O pins by sending simple serial commands. USB IO Board is self-powered by USB port and can provide up to 500mA for electronic projects. USB IO Board is breadboard compatible. ESR Meter kit is an amazing multimeter that measures ESR values, capacitance (100pF - 20,000uF), inductance, resistance (0.1 Ohm - 20 MOhm),tests many different types of transistors such as NPN, PNP, FETs, MOSFETs, Thyristors, SCRs, Triacs and many types of diodes.It also analyzes transistor\'s characteristics such as voltage and gain. It is an irreplaceable tool for troubleshooting and repairing electronic equipment by determining performance and health of electrolytic capacitors.

  

  Unlike other ESR Meters that only measure ESR value this one measures capacitor\'s ESR value as well as its capacitance all at the same time.Audiophile headphone amplifier kit includes high quality audio grade components such as Burr Brown OPA2134 opamp, ALPS volume control potentiometer, Ti TLE2426 rail splitter, Ultra-Low ESR 220uF/25V Panasonic FM filtering capacitors, High quality WIMA input and decoupling capacitors and Vishay Dale resistors. 8-DIP machined IC socket allows to swap OPA2134 with many other dual opamp chips such as OPA2132, OPA2227, OPA2228, dual OPA132, OPA627, etc. Headphone amplifier is small enough to fit in Altoids tin box, and thanks to low power consumption may be supplied from a single 9V battery. Arduino Prototype is a spectacular development board fully compatible with Arduino Pro. It\'s breadboard compatible so it can be plugged into a breadboard for quick prototyping, and it has VCC & GND power pins available on both sides of PCB.

  It\'s small, power efficient, yet customizable through onboard 2 x 7 perfboard that can be used for connecting various sensors and connectors. Arduino Prototype uses all standard through-hole components for easy construction, two of which are hidden underneath IC socket. Board features 28-PIN DIP IC socket, user replaceable ATmega328 microcontroller flashed with Arduino bootloader, 16MHz crystal resonator and a reset switch. It has 14 digital input/output pins (0-13) of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs and 6 analog inputs (A0-A5). Arduino sketches are uploaded through any USB-Serial adapter connected to 6-PIN ICSP female header.

  Board is supplied by 2-5V voltage and may be powered by a battery such as Lithium Ion cell, two AA cells, external power supply or USB power adapter.Having the ability to control various appliances inside or outside of your house wirelessly is a huge convenience, and can make your life much easier and fun. RF remote control provides long range of up to 200m / 650ft and can find many uses for controlling different devices, and it works even through the walls.

  You can control lights, fans, AC system, computer, printer, amplifier, robots, garage door, security systems, motor-driven curtains, motorized window blinds, door locks, sprinklers, motorized projection screens and anything else you can think of.Electronics-DIY.com © 2002-2019. All Rights Reserved.

  An ideal workbench power supply should have both 5-volt and 12-volt outputs, with 3.3-volts being a nice option as well. It should be capable of providing several amperes of current for each voltage.You can buy bench power supplies of course, but they are not inexpensive. As the current capability and number of output voltages go up so does the price.While a commercial bench power supply is certainly a worthwhile investment there is a cheaper solution that you might want to consider. Adapt an old computer power supply to use on your workbench.Computer power supplies have all the voltages you’ll need and some very impressive current capabilities. And, thanks to mass production, they are cheap when compared to dedicated bench power supplies.In fact, if you have access to an old computer that is on its way to the junk heap you can rescue its power supply and put together a nice bench power supply for just a few dollars.That’s what I did actually – an old Windows XP desktop computer has now become a useful addition to my workshop. ATX SupplyATX ( Advanced Technology eXtended ) is a computer motherboard configuration developed by Intel in 1995. It still is the most common motherboard configuration.ATX Power supplies have standard sizes and connectors for use with ATX motherboards.

  There are actually a few different ATX power supplies, all of them are designed to provide 3.3, 5 and 12 volt outputs. Main Power ConnectorThe main power connector supplies power to the motherboard of the computer. It also has connections for power switches and indicators.There are two types of connectors commonly used here, an older 20-pin variety (Version 1) and a newer one (Version 2) with 24-pins. Both use Molex connectors.The unit I will be experimenting with uses an older 20-pin power supply connector.Here are the two power connectors.Note that the primary difference is that the 24-pin connector has additional voltage and ground lines.You’ll notice that many connections (i.e. Ground) have been repeated, this is done to increase the current carrying capability. The actual connections from the power supply are as follows:.

  Ground – (BLACK) – The Ground or reference. +5 V – (RED) – Positive 5 volts. +12 V – (YELLOW) – Positive 12 volts. +3.3 V – (ORANGE) – Positive 3.3 volts.12 V – (BLUE) – Negative 12 volts.5 V – (WHITE) – Negative 5 volts (not on later models).

  PS-ON – (GREEN) – Power Switch On. Connect to Ground to turn on the power supply. PG – (GREY) – Power Good.

  A status voltage that is 5 volts when power is good. 5V Standby – (PURPLE) – Standby voltage, 5-volts at up to 2 amps.

  On when supply is powered up.The output voltages are self-explanatory, I’m not planning on using any of the negative ones, but you can if you wish of course. Older ATX supplies (like the one I’m using) have a -5-volt output as well as a-12-volt one, newer (24-pin) Type 2 models only have the -12-volt output. Other Power ConnectorsThe ATX type power supplies also have other connectors, used to power up peripherals such as hard disks and DVD drives.These connectors have four connections. 5-Volts – Red.

  12-Volts – Yellow. Ground – Black (Two wires)I just plan to remove these from my power supply. I’m saving them as they may be useful in a future computer build.There is also a 12-volt 4-pin connector that is used to supply power to the motherboard CPU fan.

  Its connections are pretty simple:. 12-Volts – Yellow (Two wires). Ground – Black (Two wires)I’m planning on using the additional 12-volt wires in my final design so I will just be removing the Molex connector. Hooking it upAside from the ATX power supply itself, we will need a few additional components to build our bench supply.The exact parts list will vary depending upon what you want to build your supply into. Here is what I used to build my supply (not including the materials I used for an enclosure). ATX Power supply (mine was used form an old Windows XP Desktop, it has a 20-pin connector). Binding posts for outputs.

  Fuses and Fuse Holders (optional but I thought it was a good idea). 2 LEDS, any color, for Power On and Standby indicators.

  2 330-ohm dropping resistors for the LEDs. Power Switch. 8-20 ohm 10w power resistorAs I wasn’t able to find a 20-pin Molex connector to mate with the one on my power supply I had to cut the wires. I used an 8-pin terminal strip to make my connections from the power supply.I also elected to add a power meter to my project. I’ll have details on that near the end of the article. Hi,I am only a relative newbie but I have a query about the binding posts. The only ones I found are rated only up to 10 amps.

  Since both the 3.3 volt and 5 volt outputs can exceed this value by a very long margin, are these binding posts suitable if I intend to draw i.e. 20 amps from those supplies. To me it would seem that they are not suitable for current in excess of 10amps but, as said, I am relatively new to the field and might have made some incorrect assumptions.Thanks for any help here. I’d say for a beginner you’re a pretty smart cookie! You are absolutely correct, if you do plan on drawing large amounts of current than you would need bigger binding posts, something like these ones – If you only plan on using the supply for experiments with Arduino’s and sensors than you could get away with smaller ones.

  One thing to note is that most binding posts are rated at a very high voltage, the ones I linked to are rated at 500 volts. The power in wattage would be the voltage multiplied by the current. So Read more ». As far as I know; you are a precise guy. There is this part of the circuit that you very “vaguely” mentioned.

  These are the Top Ground Knob next to the left of meter and the two Red/Black ones that you called the load. ( How do you wire them???) I know you said that they are optional. Here is the confusion. Without some kind of Triple switch, I cannot SEE what voltage I selected!!!!!

  Also because I do not know how you wired these three nobs ( on top ) how do I know which voltage is producing Read more ». Sorry for the misnomer.but you knew what I meant. So, brilliantly you did this: I am using say 12 v +, rather than plug my load to the LOWER 12 v+ and it’s ground I used your magic cable to connect the 12 v to the METER left binding post. And use the upper binding post for the load.

  

  If I am correct the binding post; you named it Ground, should be called input voltage SELECTED. And your magic cable will go externally from lower left 12 v + to this binding post. Internally that binding post is connected Read more ».

  ...'>Bench Power Supply(03.03.2020)