05
мар
Gauge Repair and Restoration for Antique, Hot Rod and Classic Vehicles Bob's Speedometer has been in business since 1929 - for over 85 years, and is one of the world's leading gauge restoration and repair shops! We service most brands and types of gauges - speedometers, tachometers, clocks, oil, fuel, amp, volt, pressure, and a host of others - for all American makes/models & years, and most. Speedy Cables skilled technicians can convert your Tachometer from mechanical to electronic, or upgrade an old electronic gauge to work with modern ignition systems. Our services extend to rescaling or recalibrating the instrument and include reproducing the dial face in its original or customised form.
I've determined that my tachometer is out of calibration. I had the day off and couldn't leave well enough alone, so I took it apart to have a look. Wow, what a bizarre mechanism. I have a thousand questions, and a few observations too.I hooked the tach up to my 1000 rpm drill and it bounced wildly, just like it does on the bike.
The adjuster screw had no effect that I could tell, so I disassembled it and cleaned it. I did some reading online, then put it back together and it was still erratic, so I decided to take it back apart to clean and lube it. Into the badlands eztv. That straightened it right out. It bounced very little and the adjuster screw now actually had a gradual effect as I turned it causing the needle to rise steadily as I turned it. It seems like it's going to work but.here's my question. I set the adjustment to read 4,000 rpms on the tach, when the drill is turning at 1,000 rpms because the tach is a 4 to 1 ratio.
BUT, IF the tach is driven off the camshaft, which is half the speed of the crankshaft, shouldn't the RPM's read 2,000 RPM's when the drive cable speed is 1000 RPM's?? I know that very few people service their own tach's and speedo's, but hopefully I'll still get an answer.
Thanks in advance. Thanks for responding. I'm still not all that sure that adjusting the calibration screw to make the clock read 4,000 rpms for a drill turning the cable at 1000 rpms correctly calibrates the tach.
(probably because I am over thinking it) It's raining today, so I won't get a chance to test drive it, which will probably be the best way to check the tach.bluto posted this site link which makes calculating the speeds, rpms, and gearing very simple. Hopefully, it's correct and I won't have to take it all apart again to recalibrate it again. I've determined that my tachometer is out of calibration. I had the day off and couldn't leave well enough alone, so I took it apart to have a look. Wow, what a bizarre mechanism.
I have a thousand questions, and a few observations too.I hooked the tach up to my 1000 rpm drill and it bounced wildly, just like it does on the bike. The adjuster screw had no effect that I could tell, so I disassembled it and cleaned it. I did some reading online, then put it back together and it was still erratic, so I decided to take it back apart to clean and lube it. That straightened it right out. It bounced very little and the adjuster screw now actually had a gradual effect as I turned it causing the needle to rise steadily as I turned it.
It seems like it's going to work but.here's my question. Porezna uprava fbih konkurs. I set the adjustment to read 4,000 rpms on the tach, when the drill is turning at 1,000 rpms because the tach is a 4 to 1 ratio. BUT, IF the tach is driven off the camshaft, which is half the speed of the crankshaft, shouldn't the RPM's read 2,000 RPM's when the drive cable speed is 1000 RPM's?? I know that very few people service their own tach's and speedo's, but hopefully I'll still get an answer. Thanks in advance. Thanks for responding. I'm still not all that sure that adjusting the calibration screw to make the clock read 4,000 rpms for a drill turning the cable at 1000 rpms correctly calibrates the tach.
(probably because I am over thinking it) It's raining today, so I won't get a chance to test drive it, which will probably be the best way to check the tach.bluto posted this site link which makes calculating the speeds, rpms, and gearing very simple. Hopefully, it's correct and I won't have to take it all apart again to recalibrate it again.
I got my tach calibrated by mostly trial and error. I think I took it apart and put it back together about 10 times.
It was a laborious process. I used an electronic tach on the bike's coil to determin the amount of adjustment needed to the norton tach, then made a drive set up jig with an old broken tach cable attached to a screw gun so I could adjust the calibration screw while it was mounted in the jig. It reads pretty close to the predicted speed/ rpms that gearingcommander specifies for my custom size wheels and 21/42 tooth sprockets. Lubing the base of the tach with a squirt of wurth HHS-2000 really cured the bouncing needle too.I just took a run down the hiway at 70 and it was reading about 4100 rpms. Gearingcommander predicted it would read 3999.
I can live with that amount of error. It cost me $44. For a new bezel, glass, and gaskets since I mangled the old bezel in the process of recalibrating it. It looks brand new.
And more importantly, it works again.
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Gauge Repair and Restoration for Antique, Hot Rod and Classic Vehicles Bob\'s Speedometer has been in business since 1929 - for over 85 years, and is one of the world\'s leading gauge restoration and repair shops! We service most brands and types of gauges - speedometers, tachometers, clocks, oil, fuel, amp, volt, pressure, and a host of others - for all American makes/models & years, and most. Speedy Cables skilled technicians can convert your Tachometer from mechanical to electronic, or upgrade an old electronic gauge to work with modern ignition systems. Our services extend to rescaling or recalibrating the instrument and include reproducing the dial face in its original or customised form.
I\'ve determined that my tachometer is out of calibration. I had the day off and couldn\'t leave well enough alone, so I took it apart to have a look. Wow, what a bizarre mechanism. I have a thousand questions, and a few observations too.I hooked the tach up to my 1000 rpm drill and it bounced wildly, just like it does on the bike.
The adjuster screw had no effect that I could tell, so I disassembled it and cleaned it. I did some reading online, then put it back together and it was still erratic, so I decided to take it back apart to clean and lube it. Into the badlands eztv. That straightened it right out. It bounced very little and the adjuster screw now actually had a gradual effect as I turned it causing the needle to rise steadily as I turned it. It seems like it\'s going to work but.here\'s my question. I set the adjustment to read 4,000 rpms on the tach, when the drill is turning at 1,000 rpms because the tach is a 4 to 1 ratio.
BUT, IF the tach is driven off the camshaft, which is half the speed of the crankshaft, shouldn\'t the RPM\'s read 2,000 RPM\'s when the drive cable speed is 1000 RPM\'s?? I know that very few people service their own tach\'s and speedo\'s, but hopefully I\'ll still get an answer.
Thanks in advance. Thanks for responding. I\'m still not all that sure that adjusting the calibration screw to make the clock read 4,000 rpms for a drill turning the cable at 1000 rpms correctly calibrates the tach.
(probably because I am over thinking it) It\'s raining today, so I won\'t get a chance to test drive it, which will probably be the best way to check the tach.bluto posted this site link which makes calculating the speeds, rpms, and gearing very simple. Hopefully, it\'s correct and I won\'t have to take it all apart again to recalibrate it again. I\'ve determined that my tachometer is out of calibration. I had the day off and couldn\'t leave well enough alone, so I took it apart to have a look. Wow, what a bizarre mechanism.
I have a thousand questions, and a few observations too.I hooked the tach up to my 1000 rpm drill and it bounced wildly, just like it does on the bike. The adjuster screw had no effect that I could tell, so I disassembled it and cleaned it. I did some reading online, then put it back together and it was still erratic, so I decided to take it back apart to clean and lube it. That straightened it right out. It bounced very little and the adjuster screw now actually had a gradual effect as I turned it causing the needle to rise steadily as I turned it.
It seems like it\'s going to work but.here\'s my question. Porezna uprava fbih konkurs. I set the adjustment to read 4,000 rpms on the tach, when the drill is turning at 1,000 rpms because the tach is a 4 to 1 ratio. BUT, IF the tach is driven off the camshaft, which is half the speed of the crankshaft, shouldn\'t the RPM\'s read 2,000 RPM\'s when the drive cable speed is 1000 RPM\'s?? I know that very few people service their own tach\'s and speedo\'s, but hopefully I\'ll still get an answer. Thanks in advance. Thanks for responding. I\'m still not all that sure that adjusting the calibration screw to make the clock read 4,000 rpms for a drill turning the cable at 1000 rpms correctly calibrates the tach.
(probably because I am over thinking it) It\'s raining today, so I won\'t get a chance to test drive it, which will probably be the best way to check the tach.bluto posted this site link which makes calculating the speeds, rpms, and gearing very simple. Hopefully, it\'s correct and I won\'t have to take it all apart again to recalibrate it again.
I got my tach calibrated by mostly trial and error. I think I took it apart and put it back together about 10 times.
It was a laborious process. I used an electronic tach on the bike\'s coil to determin the amount of adjustment needed to the norton tach, then made a drive set up jig with an old broken tach cable attached to a screw gun so I could adjust the calibration screw while it was mounted in the jig. It reads pretty close to the predicted speed/ rpms that gearingcommander specifies for my custom size wheels and 21/42 tooth sprockets. Lubing the base of the tach with a squirt of wurth HHS-2000 really cured the bouncing needle too.I just took a run down the hiway at 70 and it was reading about 4100 rpms. Gearingcommander predicted it would read 3999.
I can live with that amount of error. It cost me $44. For a new bezel, glass, and gaskets since I mangled the old bezel in the process of recalibrating it. It looks brand new.
And more importantly, it works again.
...'>Recalibrating Motorcycle Tacho(05.03.2020)Gauge Repair and Restoration for Antique, Hot Rod and Classic Vehicles Bob\'s Speedometer has been in business since 1929 - for over 85 years, and is one of the world\'s leading gauge restoration and repair shops! We service most brands and types of gauges - speedometers, tachometers, clocks, oil, fuel, amp, volt, pressure, and a host of others - for all American makes/models & years, and most. Speedy Cables skilled technicians can convert your Tachometer from mechanical to electronic, or upgrade an old electronic gauge to work with modern ignition systems. Our services extend to rescaling or recalibrating the instrument and include reproducing the dial face in its original or customised form.
I\'ve determined that my tachometer is out of calibration. I had the day off and couldn\'t leave well enough alone, so I took it apart to have a look. Wow, what a bizarre mechanism. I have a thousand questions, and a few observations too.I hooked the tach up to my 1000 rpm drill and it bounced wildly, just like it does on the bike.
The adjuster screw had no effect that I could tell, so I disassembled it and cleaned it. I did some reading online, then put it back together and it was still erratic, so I decided to take it back apart to clean and lube it. Into the badlands eztv. That straightened it right out. It bounced very little and the adjuster screw now actually had a gradual effect as I turned it causing the needle to rise steadily as I turned it. It seems like it\'s going to work but.here\'s my question. I set the adjustment to read 4,000 rpms on the tach, when the drill is turning at 1,000 rpms because the tach is a 4 to 1 ratio.
BUT, IF the tach is driven off the camshaft, which is half the speed of the crankshaft, shouldn\'t the RPM\'s read 2,000 RPM\'s when the drive cable speed is 1000 RPM\'s?? I know that very few people service their own tach\'s and speedo\'s, but hopefully I\'ll still get an answer.
Thanks in advance. Thanks for responding. I\'m still not all that sure that adjusting the calibration screw to make the clock read 4,000 rpms for a drill turning the cable at 1000 rpms correctly calibrates the tach.
(probably because I am over thinking it) It\'s raining today, so I won\'t get a chance to test drive it, which will probably be the best way to check the tach.bluto posted this site link which makes calculating the speeds, rpms, and gearing very simple. Hopefully, it\'s correct and I won\'t have to take it all apart again to recalibrate it again. I\'ve determined that my tachometer is out of calibration. I had the day off and couldn\'t leave well enough alone, so I took it apart to have a look. Wow, what a bizarre mechanism.
I have a thousand questions, and a few observations too.I hooked the tach up to my 1000 rpm drill and it bounced wildly, just like it does on the bike. The adjuster screw had no effect that I could tell, so I disassembled it and cleaned it. I did some reading online, then put it back together and it was still erratic, so I decided to take it back apart to clean and lube it. That straightened it right out. It bounced very little and the adjuster screw now actually had a gradual effect as I turned it causing the needle to rise steadily as I turned it.
It seems like it\'s going to work but.here\'s my question. Porezna uprava fbih konkurs. I set the adjustment to read 4,000 rpms on the tach, when the drill is turning at 1,000 rpms because the tach is a 4 to 1 ratio. BUT, IF the tach is driven off the camshaft, which is half the speed of the crankshaft, shouldn\'t the RPM\'s read 2,000 RPM\'s when the drive cable speed is 1000 RPM\'s?? I know that very few people service their own tach\'s and speedo\'s, but hopefully I\'ll still get an answer. Thanks in advance. Thanks for responding. I\'m still not all that sure that adjusting the calibration screw to make the clock read 4,000 rpms for a drill turning the cable at 1000 rpms correctly calibrates the tach.
(probably because I am over thinking it) It\'s raining today, so I won\'t get a chance to test drive it, which will probably be the best way to check the tach.bluto posted this site link which makes calculating the speeds, rpms, and gearing very simple. Hopefully, it\'s correct and I won\'t have to take it all apart again to recalibrate it again.
I got my tach calibrated by mostly trial and error. I think I took it apart and put it back together about 10 times.
It was a laborious process. I used an electronic tach on the bike\'s coil to determin the amount of adjustment needed to the norton tach, then made a drive set up jig with an old broken tach cable attached to a screw gun so I could adjust the calibration screw while it was mounted in the jig. It reads pretty close to the predicted speed/ rpms that gearingcommander specifies for my custom size wheels and 21/42 tooth sprockets. Lubing the base of the tach with a squirt of wurth HHS-2000 really cured the bouncing needle too.I just took a run down the hiway at 70 and it was reading about 4100 rpms. Gearingcommander predicted it would read 3999.
I can live with that amount of error. It cost me $44. For a new bezel, glass, and gaskets since I mangled the old bezel in the process of recalibrating it. It looks brand new.
And more importantly, it works again.
...'>Recalibrating Motorcycle Tacho(05.03.2020)